More, more, more – it’s the pervasive mantra today, especially when you consider that more tech devices will improve the quality of your life, more email in your inbox means you’re a more important person and more vitamin drinks will increase your performance.

More social-media followers, friends and connections mean you’re more popular and we somehow all believe that more money will fix everything. It is important to question what is fuelling this drive for more and also where this drive is taking us.

Insatiability is more complex than it might appear – it’s natural to want more; however, the challenge and complications lie in the specific focus of our wants.

Why we want

There are both obvious and not so obvious reasons why we have particular wants. These reasons and wants, such as they are, have the power to influence our thoughts, our feelings and our actions. Ultimately, for better or worse, they also shape our vision.

More is awesome. Even the concept of more is exciting; especially when it relates to something we want.

The complication comes when the rush or novelty starts to fade and we just end up craving more in an effort to keep ourselves feeling good.

Oddly, the insidious element is often not even the actual want – it’s the concept of more, made increasingly powerful by the growing desensitisation that occurs in the process.

When you eat an ice-cream, the first one tastes deeply satisfying. A second ice-cream is still good but perhaps not as satisfying as the first. If you eat a third ice-cream, it’s possible that it’s not satisfying at all. It’s the same with anything, really.

When the value of more begins to wane, you’re left with no more than a pile of stuff and a somewhat unsatisfied feeling. You probably don’t need a shrink to tell you that this isn’t so enjoyable.

Fuelling the drive

In order to figure out what to do, we must start with the two questions posited earlier: what is fuelling your drive for more and where is this drive taking you? No one can answer these questions but you.

For every ‘want’ you have, consider the ‘why’ that lies behind it. For example, why would more email signify more importance? Does it really feel better to win that competition when you share your inbox stats with a colleague?

If it does, what does this say about your focus and values? If it doesn’t, what does this say about your focus and actions? What are you really focusing on when you discuss this and what’s the real message you’re hoping to send?

Is there a more effective way to demonstrate your value to a colleague and thus choose a more meaningful focus?

Why does having more social-media followers, friends and connections mean you’re more popular?

Might your connections and followers be more concerned about how their connectivity reflects who they are or might they possibly be just a bit voyeuristic?

Do you think they’d actually follow you offline and in real life? What if you limited your connections to those who legitimately interest you?

What if you only endorsed your LinkedIn connections for skills you can properly verify with no underlying quid pro quo in mind?

Healthy desires

More isn’t all bad. In fact, it can be healthy and sustainable providing you choose the target of your focus. Take control of this choice mindfully.

Turn off the more madness by shifting toward meaning. Rather than ‘friending’ people frivolously, consider what you hope to experience or share by connecting.

What you just might get is more value and a real connection. Instead of bragging to your colleague about your inbox, ask them what’s the best email message they received that day.

Share yours too and watch how the conversation changes. What’s the likely result? More positivity, learning and value! Keep repeating this process for every want that’s hobbled by more.

We all have a drive for more in life. Whether competing or compensating, this drive can become all-consuming. Instead, we can do many things to ensure this drive takes us some place meaningful.

However, in the past six years we have narrowed that gap greatly and are fast advancing in CAD/CAM to be on par with pioneering countries, including bringing it to small business.

Australians have become more globalised and are often willing to fly overseas to attend trade fairs and industry events. At worst now, we are only a year or two behind other countries in terms of taking up new technologies. The pace is picking up.

One factor opening the floodgates to CAD/ CAM manufacturing jewellers has been the deflation of cost for the equipment involved in printing. Jewellery CAD Software has remained expensive, but the hardware in 3D printing has dropped dramatically in the past six years.

Jewellers can now buy a machine for as little as US$500 that can print castable resins and it will ship with free CAM software. Commercially available printers were priced between $50,000 to $150,000 back when I started sharing my observations about CAD.

This drop in pricing will give advent to micro-industry jewellers working from home and selling online only, with little to no actual exposure to the formal jewellery industry. For casting companies, the challenge moving forward will be to keep pace with the constant release of newer resins and understanding whether or not we will be able to produce good casts using them, and helping provide that knowledge backwards to existing and newer CAM users.

While most monomer based resins are actually castable, there are a lot of resins that are not appropriate for the commercial process, and the onus is then placed on the casting company to produce a quality cast from unknown or un-castable resins, and in some cases casting houses may suggest producing a mould from such pieces, and rather injecting the mould with wax.

I’ve found over the last couple of years, very talented “old school” jewellers I have worked with have been snapped up out of the trade to work in management roles, or now run their own businesses, and the number of traditional jewellers on the bench is diminishing – apprenticeships look to be dwindling as well.

Many traditional skills aren’t going to be passed onto the next generation of jewellers, leaving an increasing pool of new jewellers who grow directly into CAD without a full understanding of the practical aspects of production on the bench, from what they produced on the screen.

In the next five to ten years I think we are going to see a lot more young people going straight from school, having already learned CAD, with a thirst to make jewellery. They will, with very little capital expense, have the ability to create products right from their laptops; we will see a lot more micro-businesses cropping up around these new jewellers.

The current “maker” community, traditionally producing toys and small components, are moving to wanting their designs in metal, and this requires casting typically, once they tie the casting process together with what they already print now, the leap to manufacturing jewellery is only a very small one.

However, the ability to create the CAD files and print them is one thing, but the knowledge required to determine if that product is market-ready is an acquired skill, as is the finishing of the product.

Traditionally trained manufacturing jewellers are dwindling in numbers, and we as the older generation of jewellers need to share as much of this vital information as possible with these up-and-coming jewellers – and the wider jewellery community – to ensure the next generation of manufacturers aren’t faced with gaps of knowledge.

We need to get that vital information about jewellery finishing, on the web as well, where everyone can get it, so this new pool of jewellers has a resource to go to, after their “physables” becomes actual physicals.

A number of casting companies, and CAD and CAM providers are building online platforms and forum spaces for all varieties of jewellers to ask questions about 3D printing, casting and prototyping. It’s an opportunity for us to all learn from each other.

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Name: Chris Botha
Business: Pallion
Position: Operations Manager – jewellery division
Location: Marrickville, NSW
Years in the industry: 27 years

Think back to the last time you bought something in-store. Did you research it online and research it first? I bet you did… and that makes you an ‘omnishopper’!

An omnishopper is someone who utilises more than one retail channel when shopping. Perhaps they research online and buy in-store, buy online and collect in store or research in-store and buy online.

Bricks-and-mortar stores should be harnessing the power of digital marketing to increase in-store visits. Whether your website is a fun place to browse your range or an educational site with in-depth information about your products, it is integral for conversation and conversion.

Here are some tips on how to increase website traffic and then use the ensuing website data to activate in-store sales.

Harness data power

Data is important. To be able to drill down and understand buyer behaviour, you need the following metrics: look at what users bought or browsed, the devices they used to access the site, the times they visited, how they arrived on your page and where they went next.

Drive traffic to your website

To generate traffic, you must have a compelling and attractive site that encourages people want to do business with you. It must be active and updated with high-quality content and it must make use of search engine optimisation (SEO).

This means you have done keyword research and have included these keywords on your page, ensure you’re listed on Google Business and any other industry-relevant directories and have active reviews and listings on social media and use Google and Facebook for online advertising.

Once your users are on your site, it is helpful to capture their data with an email sign-up form.

Encourage sign-ups with a special discount or offer, like a five per cent discount in your online store or a gift with purchase.

If your email sign-up form is hard to use or requires too many steps, users are not going to bother.

Make it effortless for them to click through and give their information as your email list will form part of your digital-marketing efforts.

How to use data

Data is vital because it means you can shape what you do, based on your users’ behaviour – you can follow users wherever they go on the web; you can tailor blogs, content and campaigns using user data and conversions.

Let’s say you have looked at your data and found that shoppers aged between 25-34 are generally browsing your site from their mobile phones between 6pm and 8pm.

Perhaps they came via an organic search term and looked at the home page and product page before clicking through to a blog article.

You would use this information to make sure your advertising exists between 6pm and 8pm. You would also make sure that mobile users were getting the ads and that you wrote more content similar to the blog they’re reading.

Include this new content on your site along with a strong call to action to shop in-store for a special promotion. It’s actually just common sense. Break down your user data and use it to power your sales.

Content to mail out

Once you have a great database of email contacts, what do you send them to get them off the couch and into your store?

One idea may be hosting a theme day or special event to encourage in-store shopping, like an in-store flash sale. Special in-store discounts are also effective.

You need to create a sense of urgency so think about sending an in-store coupon and allow just 72 hours to redeem the discount.

You could also offer giveaways or some type of upgrade exclusively to in-store shoppers to incentivise them coming in.

You want to do just enough to deliver more value and create engagement but be careful to keep your promotions sporadic enough to ensure that people don’t come to expect deals like this all the time.

What has been discussed here are just some of the ways that you can leverage your website to drive visitors to your store. The ideas are limitless so go wild and use your imagination.

To achieve maximum success, it’s simply required that you think of your online channels – your website, your social media platforms – as in-store promotional tools as well as internet shopping destinations. That’s the real secret of omnichannel retailing.

Gemmology can grasp the fascination of amateur hobbyists who trek to find semi-precious stones through to high-end jewellers who use cut and polished gemstones to produce exquisite jewellery. The beauty of gemstones lies not only in their depth of colour or sharpness of cut but also in their diversity. No two are identical and differences in their aesthetic qualities, properties and values mean they can attract consumers right across the wider jewellery market who are seeking different price points and styles.

A passion for all things gems is what drives the following businesses, whose owners live and breathe the beauty that is coloured gemstones.

A sense of home

Rodrigo Orozco grew up in Colombia but moved to Australia more than 15 years ago. When he settled in his new home, he wanted to run a business that showcased the beauty he saw in his homeland. Falling for the lustre of Colombian emeralds, Orozco commenced his import business Beryllos, which has found success in the decade since its inception.

“One of the best ways to share my love for my country is through emeralds. They [Colombian emeralds] are definitely some of the most iconic and best-quality emeralds in the world,” Orozco explains. “Every time I sell a gemstone, I’m not just selling an emerald; I am selling my love for my country so it is quite a patriotic business for me.”

All Beryllos emeralds are sourced directly from mines in Colombia where Orozco says the quality of the product is universally unparalleled. Fellow Colombian emerald merchant Paris Lee agrees.

“I believe they are the best emeralds in the world for quality, colour saturation consistency and clarity,” Lee says. “These emeralds are known for ‘the garden’ within the stone, which refers to their unique inclusions.”

Drawing on her love of homeland Australian gemstones, Lee also sources gemstones from her own mine.

“I am also an opal miner in Lightning Ridge with my own opal mine and claim,” she adds with pride. “I am able to supply Australia’s national gemstone and the best opal in the world direct from the mine to market.”

Lee and Orozco aren’t alone in celebrating the riches of their country’s gemstones. Working in the gem fields of North Queensland was Doug Menadue’s first taste of coloured gemstones when he chose to leave his long-term career in computer programming for something new. It’s no surprise that Menadue’s favourite gemstone – Australian sapphire – comes from that region.

“The Australian sapphire is just beautiful and rare. A lot of people know we’ve got opal but that’s about it; they don’t know that we’ve got sapphire,” he explains. “Australian sapphires are different to the more common cornflower-ish blue; they tend to be a bit darker as where they are formed is quite an iron-rich environment under the ground.”

At his business Bespoke Gems, Menadue does precision cutting of all types of gemstones but he particularly loves cutting Australian sapphires. Their depth of colour appears best in a round brilliant, he says.

“They are a bit dark so fancy cuts can be lost on them,” Menadue explains. “Fancy cuts are good for lighter stones like aquamarines, garnets and tourmalines while, for Aussie sapphires, it’s a bit of a case of simpler is better.”

Ikecho Pearls is another company that appreciates Australia’s hidden treasures. In addition to pearls, the group has looked inland to source opals in the past year.

Director Erica Madsen did not have to search far to find a reputable source; her father, Erik Madsen has been mining for 40 years, most recently in Lightning Ridge, and he was more than happy to share his expertise.

“I source my boulder opal from Dad’s mines in Queensland and Lightning Ridge. He has the largest range of opals in Australia so I have a lot of variety to choose from,” Madsen says, also noting the value of the gemstone in terms of its consistency and lack of depreciation.

“A solid Australian opal can be a great long-term investment and will never go down in value or deteriorate. They are a very unique gemstone, almost all opal displays some form of pattern, and you will never find two opals that are the same.”

Generations of gemstones

Family businesses have proven to be the backbone of Australian gemstone suppliers across both mining and merchant sectors. Coolamon Mine has been yielding sapphires since 1989. Jenny and Jim Elliot were one of three families who were contracted with the Queensland government in 1984 to mine sapphires from a road reserve between Rubyvale and Sapphire.

“Jim was the engineer in charge of the road construction at that time but he became bitten by the sapphire bug. As they say, the rest is history,” Jenny says, explaining that initially the consortium reformed as Coolamon Mining to sell only rough blue sapphire to Thai dealers. It wasn’t until 2000 that the couple recognised the benefit of having the gemstones cut to sell onshore.

“We deplored the fact that when they went offshore and they lost their identity, and our best sapphires were sold as ‘product of Sri Lanka, Cambodia, Thailand’ or somewhere else to disguise their actual source,” Elliot recalls. “It has taken a long time to convince Australian jewellers that our sapphires are of highest quality and that many of the colours are unique to this particular area of the world.”

Brendan McCreesh is a second-generation owner of his family business, O’Neils Affiliated. His mother commenced operations of the gemstone trader in the 1970s and McCreesh says he is “privileged to be part of the industry.”

O’Neils trades in all gemstones but McCreesh says its almost impossible to pick a favourite species.

“Seeing a variety of breathtaking gemstones on my travels, you could say my favourite can change from day to day, but if pressed it would come down to a close race between a fine Burmese ruby, a red spinel and a neon blue-green tourmaline,” he says. “Once exposed to the diversity, individuality and endless beauty of the world of coloured stones, consumers are very often eager to learn more. It can be addictive.”

Another family-owned and operated gemstone business is K&K Export Import, which is run by Katherine Kovacs alongside her father, Charles, who established the business 50 years ago after moving to Australia.

“In the early days, my father dealt exclusively in opal before branching out into natural coloured gems in the early 70s, running the business here as well as having branches in Asia and Europe. We still do a fair amount of export to Asia, but these days the majority of our client base is at home here in Australia and tends to be manufacturers and designers,” Katherine says.

A passion for gemstones has passed through the generations and K & K continues to supply a wide variety of gems and coloured diamonds to the Australian market.

“The Australian market is very discerning in their gemstone tastes, which means we sometimes go through hundreds of carats to select stones with the right colour, cut and price. The other consideration is to find one-of-a-kind gems, a gem that might have an unusual colour or cut, something that I know I may never see again,” Kovacs says.

Diverse opportunities

In Melbourne, Wolski’s has a reputation as a trusted gemstone importer of sapphires, rubies, emeralds and aquamarines. Owner Witold Wolski has been in the business for 39 years and says that it is easy to appreciate gemstones for their sheer beauty; however, marketing trends must be taken into account.

“It is most important to have a feel for what will sell and buy accordingly. It is pointless to purchase a colour and quality in a gem that is popular in Vietnam, for instance, if my client base is in Australia,” he explains, “I import some semiprecious stones if I feel that there is a wholesale demand for them.”

Given the diversity of his gemstones on offer, Wolski enjoys the opportunity to travel internationally to source his gemstones.

“There is a lot of overlap in quality between mines and some countries so that it is impossible to say that I import exclusively from a particular country or mine. I travel around the world to major wholesale trading centres because that it where the prices are most competitive if you know the market,” he says.

Lee has used a similar business model to ensure the sustainability of Nature’s Gemstones. Aside from offering a variety of Colombian emerald, Lee also imports ruby, tanzanite, aquamarine, morganite and tourmaline. Depending on colour trends, Lee selected emeralds from different provinces, which display different colours, offering diversity to attract different consumers.

“Demand varies greatly with regards to colour interpretation and I select the blue and greens from Muzo and yellow/greens from the Chivor regions. They are supplied from the ethically-responsible miners and merchants with the best reputation for quality and cut,” she explains.

Madsen found that demand for doublets in Ikecho Pearls’ opal collection was dwindling and chose to move away from the product.

“Opal doublets are a thin section of either precious or crystal opal, glued to a glass, potch or tourmaline backing but, with no crystal cap to cover the opal, doublets only consist of the two layers,” she explains. “We started with high-quality, good-colour doublet opal from Lightning Ridge but have had feedback that customers prefer to sell a solid opal. We will now specialise in this area.”

Reaching full potential

Some treatments and techniques can add to the brilliance of a gemstone but the industry can be divided on what is ethical. Australian gemstone companies generally have their own policies on what is and isn’t acceptable where gem treatments are concerned. Coolamon Sapphires, for example, chooses to heat-treat its Central Queensland, blue and green sapphires to eradicate “sleepy or silky” appearances after faceting.

“This phenomenon is eliminated by replicating the natural formation and heating the stone to a temperature high enough to drive off or re-absorb the rutile, thus clearing the stone and making it brighter,” Elliot says. “It may brighten the colour but it does not change it, as is done by the rather controversial chemical modification by the addition of beryllium to the furnace. The Central Queensland blue and some greens are nearly always silky and will need treating but our beautiful yellow stones and most of our parti-colour stones almost never do.”

Nature’s Gemstones Colombian emeralds are no-oil gemstones, meaning they aren’t oiled with natural cedar oil to fill the surface.

“Ninety per cent of the world’s emeralds are oiled and it is a practice that is accepted within the trade,” Lee says. “Oil treatment optically improves the overall clarity and colour of the emerald. All treated gemstones must be disclosed as such. No-oil emeralds are quite rare and therefore are quality investment pieces.”

Menadue works hard to give gemstones optimal sparkle through his precision-cut process. He says in the early days he sourced many of his stones to sell to jewellers. Nowadays, much of his work is fixing poorly-cut gemstones from commercial gem cutters.

“The biggest problem is windows in the stones. The aim of the commercial cutter is to cut as heavy a stone as possible from the piece of rough. For them it’s not about cutting the most beautiful, brilliant or shiny stone; it’s purely about weight and it’s a commodity,” Menadue says of commercial cutters.

“When you show people a commercially-cut stone side by side with a precision-cut stone, they instantly see the difference. It’s like chalk and cheese. There’s beauty in a well-cut stone; it’s full of life when it’s cut to the right angle.”

To know is to sell

Orozco believes “Australians have an appetite for emeralds”; however, consumers sometimes avoid the gemstone given its lack of hardness.

“Consumers need to be made more aware of emeralds. People have a lot of concerns for them and tend to think it is fragile stone that will easily break. It’s not like a diamond where you wear it every day but it is sturdy enough if you care for it,” he explains. “The reason emeralds are often weaker is due to the inclusions – when they have inclusions they are weaker. That’s why I bring in quality material with quality inclusions so that customers can gain trust in emeralds.”

McCreesh believes the category is an excellent way to increase profit margins outside of the “competitive” diamond industry and education about the sector is paramount.

“It’s essential that retail sales staff have an understanding of the basics, the more knowledge, the more sales, of that there is absolutely no doubt,” he says. “We have produced a colour poster packed with information for this exact purpose; it informs and enlightens people to options and possibilities they would probably not arrive at on their own.”

Kovacs says there are some consumers who still have misconceptions about the industry and she is passionate about education as a means to counter this, drawing on her extensive experience with the Gemmological Association of Australia (GAA) where has she sat on various state and federal committees for more than 15 years. .

“Many, if not most, end consumers are researching on the internet before they purchase. If your client knows more than you do about your product, they will lose faith and respect for you. That goes for gem importers and retailers,” she says.

“Almost every day we have clients trying to source a gemstone or diamond that their client has seen on the internet. There are many times when the stone they’re trying to match is a one-of-a-kind, and we have to explain that we can’t always replicate Mother Nature, although we always try to find something that is at least similar, she says.

Parti-colour sapphires have recently become the drawcard among consumers who are happy to wear less-traditional gemstone colours, as Elliot has experienced at Coolamon.

“Gaining some traction for these stones on the jewellery market in Australia has been an interesting process, however, as our jewellers and their customers initially didn’t understand them well and tended to ask for the impossible. Now, the brilliant parti-colour sapphires are highly desired in their own right as they are unmistakably genuine, natural products,” Elliot says.

Menadue is one such cutter who has made remarkable pieces with Coolamon sapphires and says he is pleased to see jewellers commissioning more unusual cuts in a wider variety of gemstones.

“Everyone’s on their smartphone and on Instagram and they’re seeing a lot more creativity out there. Right across the board, colourful, wonderful things are happening out there, and I think people are starting to switch onto that and they’re getting more adventurous,” he acknowledges. “The jewellers who use my stones are doing their own thing. They’re open to new ideas in terms of coloured stones and design.”

Kovacs senior, Charles says in his 50 years in the gemstone industry he has seen great change in the sector, but clients’ passion for gemstones has remained steadfast.

“We are fortunate to have relationships with suppliers and clients that in some cases stretch back multiple decades; they’ve become like family to us! But we are also equally excited to work with and encourage younger designers,” he says.

It seems that the sector is as diverse and fascinating as the gemstones it sells.

It’s been two decades since male jewellery consumers showed genuine readiness to extend beyond functional watches and neck chains and into decorative items that enhance the wearer’s image by providing a sense of identity and style.

Twenty years ago, the market moved with trepidation to meet the demands of a new fashion-conscious consumer. Today, however, jewellers are capitalising on jewellery for men and are taking every opportunity to expand the market.

According to Maiya Adams, head of global research at UK-based market research firm Adorn Insight, “The focus on appearance is key today. Jewellery is a part of image creation and therefore increasingly used as a means of accessorising and personalising a look.”

The New York Times reported that sales of men’s accessories increased 9 per cent to $US13.6 billion ($AU18.9b) in the 12 months ending May 2014, making the point that the fashion industry is capitalising on men’s accessories.

“As men become increasingly comfortable with adorning themselves, savvy brands seeking to add revenue streams to their portfolios will tap this sector for its growth potential,” Adams says.

Local influence

Industry heavyweights from seven of the country’s top men’s-jewellery suppliers have weighed in on the category’s progression in recent years. Cudworth Enterprises director Darren Roberts says that men’s jewellery has evolved considerably since the millennium.

“The market, which was conservative and masculine, is now daring to try new styles of jewellery,” Roberts says. Cudworth Enterprises is known for its bracelets, chains, rings, tiepins, pendants and cufflinks in base metal, steel, silver and gold.

Duraflex Group Australia (DGA) supplies Thomas Sabo to Australia. Its men’s collection Rebel at Heart launched in 2009, and managing director Phil Edwards says the market for branded jewellery has grown considerably.

“In Australia the demand is steady, but in Asia we are seeing significant growth and expansion for these brands.”

Paterson Fine Jewellery has been supplying men’s jewellery since it acquired Marrickville-based gents-ring jeweller Weiser & Hanak in 1996. The line includes sterling silver and 9-carat traditional gentlemen’s rings and cufflinks, and will soon venture into bracelets.

Managing director David Paterson attributes “European influence”, including social ambassadors, as the driving force behind a “passion for quality men’s jewellery”. He believes the demand is stronger than ever before for affordable jewellery.

Peter W Beck managing director Peter Beck concurs: “We are currently seeing a strong market for men’s jewellery. We have observed that men are now more adventurous with their choice of wedding rings and now often choose titanium, zirconium, two and three-tone products and diamonds.

“In gold, the traditional yellow and white are still on trend for men. We have seen that younger male buyers favour our newer products in titanium, which shows a masculine, grey colour unlike any gold, and zirconium, a dramatic black colour,” Beck says.

The company has also added titanium and zirconium products to its men’s range which it believes have been popular in the current market.

“The younger generation of male jewellery buyers are more discerning in choice of both design and materials,” Beck continues, adding, “We expect the market to remain strong as we have noted its growth and don’t expect this to change.”

Worth & Douglas supplies men’s rings of all kinds, offering platinum, palladium, titanium and zirconium. Director Chris Worth agrees with Beck’s sentiments.

“Men’s jewellery is a big part of fashion and style now,” he says, mentioning that it was only a few years ago that jewellery was reserved for weddings and special occasions. “White metals are still very popular for men and black is being widely sought after.”

As the industry expands, Worth predicts “new concepts, metals and materials will be added to a company’s collection along with additional plating options”.

Jewellery has succeeded in capturing the evolution, according to David Rodrigues from Australian Wholesale Jewellery (AWJ), who says the transition has happened over time with some trends emerging and fading away.

“Traditionally, a man would normally only buy a gold wedding band. These bands changed over time to include more colourful use of two-tone and even three-tone white, yellow and pink gold in different patterns,” Rodrigues says.

RJ Scanlan specialises in men’s rings having pioneered three-tone wedding rings.

“My father Robert introduced fancy, three-tone wedding rings at a time when most jewellery stores had only sold plain yellow gold bands [to men],” says Chris Scanlan, whose company distributes Dora wedding rings.

Since then the men’s wedding ring market has changed regularly; white gold has become popular and alternative metals like titanium and carbon fibre – blended with gold – are very much on trend with guys today, according to Scanlan. He attributes economic factors for the constant presence of non-traditional metals such as titanium and tungsten on social media platforms, creating a demand for lower-priced options in some demographics.

Stainless styles

Cudworth first introduced stainless steel jewellery in Australia in 2002; however, the company has seen many changes in the sector since its establishment back in 1921.

“Stainless steel is hardy, durable material that works well for men. Of late we have been combining steel with Italian leather and with semi-precious stones,” Roberts says.

AWJ has been around for almost quarter of a century and Rodrigues agrees that non-precious metals are in demand for men’s jewellery.

“Stainless steel has led the way in styles with pendants, bracelets and rings using leather or similar materials with the metal,” he says.

The company offers stainless steel, as well as a range of tungsten, titanium and silver wedding jewellery, some with carbon fibre or wood inlays.

“Alternative materials like tungsten and ceramics will make their way into the mainstream jewellers as accepted norms,” Rodrigues predicts, “Especially products that will not discolour or fade, like zirconium and ceramics.”

Stainless steel has long been the perfect price point for men looking to enter the market, but Paterson argues that even this trend is now giving way to fine metals and mixed materials.

“Stainless steel jewellery was a huge growth area in men’s jewellery about 10 years ago but the trend is now coming back to fine metals mixed with natural stones, woods and leathers,” Paterson says, adding that it was about to launch a collection “featuring leather bracelets and natural stones”.

Scanlan is optimistic that there will be a return to precious metals.

“We are in the business of selling precious metals and it’s in everyone’s interests to be selling higher-quality products,” he says. “My hope is that we are all selling more gold three years from now.”

Branded boys

DGA also deals with stainless steel in the Save Brave collection and sterling silver in the Thomas Sabo brand. It’s been almost a decade since the company launched the line in Australia offering a range of bracelets, necklaces, rings and more. Edwards contends that the market for branded jewellery in Australia has experienced significant growth over the years.

“Men’s jewellery such as Thomas Sabo’s Rebel at Heart collection has evolved into a unisex line that caters to both men’s and women’s sizing,” Edwards says.

Roberts is positive and confident about the expansion of the branded jewellery market. As an example of this confidence Cudworth added luxury, London-based men’s jewellery range Tateossian to its portfolio last year, joining well-established Hugo Boss.

“It is a growing market as the demand is there. We just need to keep an eye on trends that suit our market and not be complacent,” Roberts says.

Changing norms

Another reason for the resurgence of men’s jewellery, according to Adams’ study, is “a more open-minded approach to gender identity” with the definition of what is typically masculine or feminine becoming more open to interpretation.

Adams predicts this new disposition by men will be tapped for exponential growth: “If you look at the menswear catwalks for Spring/Summer 2019, there was a plethora of jewellery looks and silhouettes that build on trends that have, until now, been big in women’s jewellery: stacking and layering, multiple ear piercings, statement rings, talismans and trinkets.”

Adams contends that social media stars, celebrities and leading bloggers are also influencing men’s taste in jewellery.

“We’ve noticed the welcome rise of elaborate brooches on male stars on the red carpets at events such as the recent Emmys too,” she says.

Roberts agrees that the role of celebrities and the use of active social media sites by brands with accounts on Facebook, Instagram, Twitter and YouTube is changing men’s attitudes towards jewellery.

“With the biggest brands and celebrities talking to you 24/7 through your mobile phones, we now see it’s more than just watches and cufflinks,” he says. “They [consumers] see what their idols are wearing and multiple necklaces, bracelets, rings are now accepted as the norm.”

Dr Andrea Waling, research Fellow at La Trobe University’s Australian Research Centre in Sex, Health and Society agrees.

“With the shift in gender roles, we are getting away from these ideas of what men and women can and cannot do,” Waling says. “It is becoming more acceptable for men to wear jewellery. Perhaps, for some it is being more daring while, for others, it’s always been an expression of themselves.”

Decorative versus functional

Men have been wearing jewellery for centuries, but Paterson and Waling agree that its purpose has changed over time.

“I think men have always been wearing jewellery. I think jewellery as decorative rather than functional is becoming more mainstream again for men,” Waling says.

Paterson agrees: “I don’t think there was a flashpoint in the demand for men’s jewellery, as that has always been there, but the market has changed from a piece that is worn every day to interchangeable items that match mood or complement an outfit.”

Waling traces the types of jewellery worn by men: “Unlike in the past, where jewellery would be much more opulent and perhaps flowery, men’s jewellery today is very streamlined – hard edges and shapes rather than curved, darker colours, and not a lot of intricate detail nor a lot of gemstones,” she says “This goes in line with how we might visualise an aesthetic for masculinity that is similar.”

Annette Atakliyah from Isaac Jewellery has a different take on men’s jewellery. She says her clientele are mainly from Indian and Arabic backgrounds where decorative jewellery stands out.

“Customers are happy with our designs and we custom-make according to their tastes with input from them,” Atakliyah says.

Isaac Jewellery, which started in the 1980s, specialises in producing “finest-quality gold chains and bracelets made by hand”.

Atakliyah says bracelets were historically the business’ main product but now “there is a bigger demand for chains that could range from 50g to 1kg”.

“Now the demand for bracelets and chains are equal,” she asserts, adding that designs are also available in platinum, sterling silver and palladium.

Paterson feels the market is still growing and says colours are entering the otherwise-monochromatic colourscape.

“Dark red is a popular colour in gents rings at the moment, as is mother of pearl in men’s rings,” he says.

“If we believe in trend cycles then we might expect a return to the heritage-style men’s signet rings, insignia, flat tops, black onyx and traditional styles.”

It’s no longer a secret that men are now more fashion conscious and keen to purchase accessories to boost their image. Retailers looking to bolster sales should investigate this consistently expanding market.

Men’s jewellery: a historical take The category has a glorious, long and lustrous past. Dr Andrea Waling looks back. “We can trace the wearing of jewellery by men back numerous centuries and through varying cultures and places. In fact, men were more likely to wear jewellery in the past than they are now,” Waling says. “Ancient Romans and Greeks, the Celt Reign, Renaissance, Middle-Ages, the Enlightenment, Victorian Era – they all had men wearing different kinds of jewellery.” The reasons why men wore jewellery depended upon the culture and the era. “In the Middle Ages, men wore jewellery to demonstrate wealth, power and prestige, as well as allegiances to certain families, which was done by having a crest or signal of the family on the ring,” Waling continues. “The upper classes were much more likely to wear jewellery to denote their class status. For men, jewellery was used to make a statement about their identity and famous men, such as Sir Walter Raleigh – rumoured to be the lover of Queen Elizabeth I – often wore a pearl earring. For other men like pirates, hoop earrings were worn to provide insurance in case they needed a proper burial. Jewellery has also held religious meanings; ancient Greeks would wear floral laurels on their heads to indicate their status and relationship with their chosen god or gods,” she adds. Men doing away with decorative jewellery could be traced to the advent of industrialism and the world wars in Western culture, where resources became scarce. “Jewellery was a luxury many could not afford. After the Second World War, we began to get a very defined notion of gender roles and what is appropriate in terms of masculinity and femininity. Jewellery became something that was seen as excessive and frivolous rather than functional and useful. It was thus designated to be a woman’s item in line with beliefs at the time about the role of women in society,” Waling says. “Men wearing jewellery in the 1950s was seen to be too theatrical. Things like watches, tiepins and cufflinks are functional; they serve a purpose, rather than being purely decorative. Rings too serve a purpose, demonstrating an allegiance to a group like the Freemasons or designating relationship status,” she adds.

 

The Hope Will Catch Our Tears Initiative will produce 100 specially created pendant necklaces, which will be sold by Guild members to raise funds for Beyond Blue Australia and advocate for mental health resources and support.

Diamond Guild Australia executive officer Melissa James unveiled the ‘Hope Will Catch the Tears’ pendant designed by Niki Jackson from J Farren-Price; $2,000 from every one sold will go directly to Beyond Blue.

“The pendant features a single pear-shaped diamond ‘tear drop’ below which two curved gold sections represent a pair of hands. This reflects the idea of being supported through depression and anxiety, the idea of acknowledging the difficulty for those who suffer from mental health challenges but also the importance of those around them that are their support network,” James announced at the Gala.

“We will be offering a limited edition of 100 of these pendants through our Guild members stores over the next 12 months and hope to generate a $200,000 donation Beyond Blue to support their much needed work, but also to honour the many individuals and families that have suffered the effects of depression and suicide.”

James Thredgold of James Thredgold Jeweller inspired the campaign through his mental health advocacy efforts. Thredgold lost his wife Holly to depression in 2016 at the age of 42 and said she was “amazing and wanted to be an advocate for mental health.”

“While I was on holidays my amazing kids, Melissa and the team had come up with the idea which almost brought me to tears,” he said.

Thredgold has been a long-time supporter of mental health resources and is a Breakthrough Mental Health Research Foundation ambassador where he gives presentations about destigmatising the conversation surrounding mental health and provides advice for seeking support based in his 15 years with Holly.

“I think if we see people talking about it in all different walks of life and they see that just like cancer or any other disease, it doesn’t choose people according to race colour or wealth, then we can raise funds to find triggers,” Thredgold said.

“One day I hope that we can at least help reduce the number of people who suffer form it. If we can raise awareness for mental health I think people will listen.”

Editor’s note: A full report of the Diamond Guild Australia Jewellery Awards Gala, will appear in the December issue of Jeweller. The special edition will also feature The Great Diamond debate with in-depth discussions around the rise of synthetic diamonds.

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Casting for new customers
 

The Duchess wore the New Zealand brand’s Temptation stud earrings, featuring a dyed pearl set in 9-carat gold on two occasions: first on her visit to Bondi Beach, where she and Prince Harry spent time with members of non-profit mental health group OneWave, and again on the second day of her trip to Fiji.

Worth & Douglas has manufactured and supplied Karen Walker for 15 years and director John Worth said consumers have shown “huge interest” in the earrings since their appearance on the Duchess.

“We have experienced increased sales globally. Meghan has made her own mark in fashion, even before becoming engaged to Prince Harry, and has created the effect that anything the Duchess wears increases sales and exposure for that brand,” Worth said.

“Meghan has previously worn Karen Walker clothing at New York Fashion Week.”

Markle has established a penchant for Australian and New Zealand jewellery brands while on her trip Down Under for the Invictus Games; she was also spotted wearing earrings from Sydney designer Natalie Marie’s eponymous brand.

Markle’s stylists also showcased the work of local fashion designers including Karen Gee, which the Duchess wore during her pregnancy announcement on 15 October. According to news reports the designer’s website crashed following the announcement due to immense web traffic.

The Duchess also wore pieces from local fashion designers including Martin Grant, Outland Denim, Dion Lee, Emilia Wickstead and Zimmerman during the tour.

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Michael Hill enters US market

The story: Michael Hill International will make its debut into the US market after agreeing to purchase 17 Whitehall Jewellers stores.

All conditions for its purchase in Illinois and Missouri in the US have been satisfied, and the company has taken possession of the stores in accordance with the terms of the agreement.

According to a statement from the company, the purchase price is in the vicinity of $US5.5m.

Tiffany solid in Asia-Pacific

The story: Tiffany & Co. has attributed strong sales in the Asia-Pacific region to solid profit growth in its first half year.

According to a report in Inside Retailing, the high-end jeweller announced a group-wide sales increase of 11 per cent in the second quarter and a 21 per cent increase in net earnings.

“Sales in the Asia-Pacific region increased 17 per cent to $US214.2 million in the second quarter and 19 per cent to $436.3 million in the first half,” Tiffany said in a statement.

Tiffany’s global retail operations “once again demonstrated the ability to generate strong operating earnings growth despite weakness in certain individual country markets,” said Michael J. Kowalski, chairman and CEO.

Miller gets passionate about jewellery

The story: Sydney-based supplier Miller Diamonds has launched two new ranges of diamond-mounted jewellery at the recent Australian Jewellery Fair in Sydney.

A market-ready range of Passion8 jewellery extends the group’s work with Passion8 branded diamonds, while branded line Gebrüder Schaffrath uses unique diamond settings. 

 

It’s no secret that the jewellery industry has been doing it ‘tough’ for the past two years, though it is not the only retail sector affected by Australia’s current, weird economic conditions – the economy is strong but people aren’t spending, so it was understandable that neither suppliers nor retailers had high hopes for this year’s Fair.

Expertise Events announced that visitor attendance has increased over last year’s event and while it did appear that the mood and numbers were up, it should be remembered how significantly JAA-created industry division and turmoil affected the 2017 event.

What I found more interesting is the change in the pattern of visitor attendance; traditionally, Sunday has been the busiest day but there was no doubt that Saturday was much busier this year.

Sadly, 2017 was not a stellar year for the Australian jewellery industry and the Fair offered a chance to put that behind us. Certainly there were many more smiling faces this year and it felt once more like the good ol’ days where everyone gathers at the Fair to see old friends and colleagues.

Speaking of the ‘good old days’ I think that too many people attempt to compare the Fair to the boon times of 8–10 years ago. Exhibitors and visitors with whom I spoke all noted the improvement over last year but some still pine for the glory days, which is unrealistic.

One supplier at the Fair was quick to point the finger at many people when I was discussing this topic. When I asked him if his business was just as good as it was in 2010, he replied, “No”.

I asked him if that was his fault and he answered, “Of course not, times are tough”. So he didn’t want to be held accountable for the state of his business, but in the same breath blamed it on others for the wider industry woes!

Back to my point, we have little control over macro-economic issues but we can get back to the good ol’ days of an industry that is unified and cohesive.

I think it’s interesting to note that Leading Edge is considering scheduling its annual members’ conference to take place during next year’s Fair, rather than at a separate location prior to the event.

Unlike Nationwide, which coordinates member activities and education, as well as its annual awards at the Sydney trade show, Leading Edge and Showcase organise their events in the days before.

There has been growing dissatisfaction from suppliers about the inconvenience and expense of attending three separate events – the Leading Edge event, the Showcase event and the Fair – all of which could easily be conducted under one roof at the same time.

This convergence of events used to happen many years ago so there’s no reason why all three buying groups can’t work together with Expertise Events for the benefit of the whole industry, especially after the JAA’s disastrous attempt to divide the trade.

Wouldn’t it be a great thing to see everyone under the one roof in 2019?

While we are discussing common sense matters, perhaps we could look at a more sensible approach to the various jewellery design awards too. There are at least three major competitions – JAA Design Awards, Jewellery Design Awards, Diamond Guild Awards – as well as a few smaller events, all serving a small audience.

There’s so much duplication here, with all three competitions seeking sponsorship from the same companies.

There’s an argument to be had that common sense could prevail here too.

Indeed, let’s nominate 2019 as The Year of Common Sense for the Australian jewellery industry and hopefully achieve a return to the good ol’ days.

A couple of years ago I read a book that shifted my thinking around what constitutes prosperity and running a successful business. The book, Conscious Capitalism: Liberating the Heroic Spirit of Business by John Mackey and Raj Sisodia, led me to embrace the term ‘conscious’ in the business sense and eventually I coined ‘conscious selling’ as a framework for results.

What I read around business ethics generally was inspiring and intriguing but, at a higher level, I felt something was missing – the lack of discussion around the sales function, specifically the capital part of conscious capitalism and how the sales landscape has turned upside down over the past decade, completely disrupting the sales role.

Firstly, whenever I mention conscious selling to people, there are a couple of assumptions they make as to its meaning: the first is that people are not unconscious and therefore are with us in mind, body and spirit.

As a direct result, these people are able to perform their roles from an energetic perspective.

The second is that people have a consciousness that aligns with their levels of competence.

They are aware and can adapt to the skills and mindset gaps impacting their results.

Both assumptions clearly have their place but there is another meaning to the word ‘conscious’ in the context of business – it is the desire and intention to sell on purpose, to align and adjust to what is important in the cut and thrust of this money-making role. A huge part of this is understanding the importance of earning money.

If you want to make an impact and you want to light up your world or even the wider world, you need to be able to pay the power bill. Let’s go back and apply the concept of ‘selling on purpose’ to the role of the salesperson and respond to the seven key questions of conscious selling.

How many salespeople are conscious when doing a deal? Those who have the energy and foresight to be present to the conversation, who use what I have adapted as the third eye poised for intuition, intention and insights.

How many salespeople are conscious of what their ideas, products or services mean to the end user?

It is those who have the ability to adapt their conversations on the fly, realising business conversations are not about what you sell but the emotional difference you are selling.

How many salespeople are truly aware of the responsibility they hold? It is those employees who understand the problem behind the problem.

These employees know how their ‘deal’ might save a business from going under, might help their client stay afloat or might have a ripple effect on the greater community.

How many salespeople understand that two degrees of separation is not just a cliché but is a truth and that we are all connected?

We are just one mouse click away from being seen for the value we provide others, online and offline – the opposite applies too.

Conscious sellers are those open to adjusting their old beliefs in order to provide that value.

How many salespeople can comfortably lose sight of their commission, detach from their need to close and instead offer a solution is truly right for the client, the company and themselves?

Those who have the emotional intelligence to bring a ‘whole-of-self’ approach to the market are able to align themselves to common values.

Vulnerability, transparency, and engagement are attributes that conscious salespeople have in spades and when authenticity, relevance and intention ooze out of them, it creates huge deposits of goodwill in the minds of buyers.

Finally, it is those employees who are not afraid to test their money beliefs for a fairly-negotiated win-win scenario because their need for respect is stronger than their need to discount.

We know the sales environment is changing just as the world is changing around it and we are relentlessly bombarded with the message that the buyer is changing also.

When taken on board and acted upon, these ideas can create huge forward strides for clients manifesting in deals and renewed relationships.

Consciousness leads to change and change is what we are all really selling.

The Australian Retailers Association (ARA) congratulates Prime Minister Morrison on taking over the reins of Cabinet, while the association believes the new ministry targeting problem areas in the retail industry looks promising for retailers.

Prime Minister Morrison’s first ministry will be a great opportunity for retailers across the country, with Michaelia Cash appointed as Minister for Small Business, Skills and Vocational Education.

This strong focus on small business, education and will enable retailers to increase employment and training in the sector to ensure prosperity and growth for the retail industry.

The ARA is also heartened by the significance afforded to energy by splitting the portfolio into two, appointing Melissa Price as Minister for the Environment and giving Angus Taylor the energy portfolio to be handled separately.

The ARA drew the attention of the government to the plight of the retailers who are finding it hard to keep their heads above water, given the escalating energy prices and rising tenancy costs. The ARA believes the Prime Minister’s new Cabinet will need to show how the government will help retail businesses before the next election.

The ARA will be looking to Prime Minister Morrison’s new Cabinet to reduce these rising costs and enable retailers to focus on using their profits to hire more staff.

With 1.2 million people across Australia employed in the retail industry, the ARA is keen to boost jobs in this sector and transform retail from a stepping-stone industry into a professional fully-fledged career that is fulfilling.

The ARA is committed to ongoing career support in retail by a twofold process of educating retail staff and assisting them in progressing their careers to ensure the longevity of Australian retail.

Stability the key

The first reaction of the ARA to the leadership baton change in government was the hope expressed for long-term certainty and stability in the retail sector, saying uncertainty was never good for business as retailers were looking forward to a strong and stable future.

The ARA believes that a strong and stable government will support retailers through the current fluctuating trading environment and assist the association’s mission in transforming retail to a long-term fulfilling career.

With retail trade averaging a 2.7 per cent growth this year, the ARA believes, retailers are looking for long-term certainty and stability, which enables them to make long-term decisions to grow their business and hire more staff.

Retail turnaround

The ARA was pleased with how the end of financial year closed with a 2.87 per cent total growth year-on-year and noted that the positive growth was mostly due to the strong trade in clothing, footwear and personal accessories and food retailing in June.

It noted a 5.26 per cent year-on-year growth in June in this category with food retailing also growing 4.31 per cent in the month with supermarkets making a strong comeback by having the strongest growth since June 2017.

June 2018 saw the key retail categories posting healthy results given the rise in business confidence that often falls after the Federal Budget.

The increase shows greater strength in the market, giving retailers much-needed assurance to invest in their businesses and execute their strategies.

Sterling silver is firmly ensconced once more as an integral part of the in-store display of most jewellers following a steady rise in popularity over the past couple of decades. While a few socio-economic factors have contributed to this resurgence, it is silver’s affordability and fashion status that are the main reasons for its popularity.

The Global Financial Crisis (GFC) was one factor that contributed positively to the status of sterling silver when the soaring price of gold forced manufacturers to switch to white metals. Sterling silver has subsequently become an important part of any jewellery lover’s collection even if it may not yet be considered as ‘cool’ as some other precious metals.

Perceptions still exist of silver as an old-fashioned metal, probably because it has historically been limited to safe, classic designs; however, this is changing as suppliers appeal to Danish and European silver houses for fresh, modern and even innovative collections that can help fuel recent demand. Fabuleux Vous is one such brand doing just that, releasing silver collections set with semi-precious stones. Managing director Helen Thompson-Carter says suppliers must strive to offer a point of difference in what she believes is a “sterling silver saturated market”.

“Silver as a metal and as a product is very interesting; the demand for silver is huge and there is an existing saturation we are seeing right now,” she says. “One of the challenges for retailers is that they are looking for something that is tried and tested, rather than looking for true innovation, but if you’re looking for something that’s tried and tested then you’re only looking to stock exactly the same thing that’s on offer down the road.”

A point of difference

It is very easy for suppliers to aspire to distribute collections that offer their retailers a point of difference; it is much more difficult to achieve it. For West End Collection’s general manager John Rose, the key has been to look at neighbouring countries.

West End Collection launched New Zealand brand Stolen Girlfriends Club in Australia late last year. The label has been successful in the land of the long white cloud for six years and is the brainchild of two fashion designers. Rose says the brand appeals due to its unique aesthetic qualities and “edgy” appearance, setting it apart from many other sterling silver brands.

“The founders created Stolen Girlfriends Club as an art exhibition and people loved the name of the art show so much that they carried it across to their jewellery brand,” Rose says of the silver collection’s creation.

The line incorporates traditional cross motifs but also showcases a range of crystal skulls, bows and hearts with “stolen” engraved within them.

“We’ve got quite a few retailers now carrying Stolen Girlfriend and it gives them a real point of difference in their store compared to the finer, more traditional silver lines,” Rose adds. “People gravitate towards it because it’s quirky and it’s a bit of fun.”

New Zealand jewellers are also making waves with modern sterling silver jewellery. Benjamin Black Goldsmiths creates custom jewellery pieces while its sister fashion label Black Matter produces “demi-fine fashion pieces” in sterling silver. Owner Benjamin Clark says sterling silver is an ideal metal given its durability.

“Sterling silver is not only a fantastic price point for consumers; it’s great to work with. As manufacturing jewellers, this means we can create beautiful handmade designs for people at an achievable price. It’s also a durable metal and lasts really well,” Clark says, adding that the business produces pieces with recycled materials to offer a point of difference to environmentally conscious consumers.

“For us, we have started recycling and reusing metals wherever possible. Most of our sterling silver jewellery, especially with Black Matter, is made from recycled silver. Consumers are becoming more aware of where their products are made, how and by whom. Having an ethical conscience and being aware of how what we do affects our people and our planet is really important.”

One local business looking to not only offer a point of difference, but also make a difference in the world is Bella Donna Silver. Manager Donna Quinn said she started the business in 2003 providing, employment to jewellers in Indonesian islands and raising funds for orphanages.

“Our jewellers mostly work from home in what is called the ‘cottage craft’ industry. A lot of our jewellers work in their homes and make our jewellery in sterling silver,” she explains.

“It means that if their wives work, the kids come home from school and their dads are at home working, which is a nice environment. Most of the kids that are part of the family of jewellers who work for us have nice lives, but there are a lot orphans in these countries. So for years we’ve wanted to make a difference and help these kids have a bright and hopeful future.”

The Bella Donna Silver collection is known for its Harmony Balls collection, which has helped one of its founding jewellers move from living in lower class to owning four properties, just one of the many success stories to come from the business model.

Nowadays, Bella Donna features a wide range of sterling silver products covering “trendy, flavour of the month styles”.

Mexican silver is another precious metal which offers high quality products in the sterling silver category. Ironclay Silver’s Adriana Corti says the business produces handmade pieces from skilled silversmiths in Mexico.

“We cater for a lot of different tastes from very modern to traditional and classic designs so there is something for everybody. We have a big selection of mixed metals as well. I have an artist who works with silver and copper and silver and brass,” she says.

“Mexico has a very rich history of silversmithing. Silver jewellery is fabulous because you can get really amazing pieces without having to pay the cost of gold.”

Aztec Gold & Silver’s Susan Campbell has offered pieces in white metal for decades and has found success in her Blooming Daisy collection, a sterling silver floral arrangement with a gold plated centre. In recent times she came across a new technique produced by a silversmith in Europe.

“He casts the silver and then sprinkles organic powder in a variety of colours onto the metal and puts it back in the kiln to bake the colour into the jewellery. He does the colouring with his partner in one room so the other silversmiths he works with don’t know how he does it, he has a very secretive way of doing things,” she explained.

“He spent years and years testing it and he keeps producing these amazing designs and I think they look quite amazing. They are very different to anything else that’s on the market at the moment.”

Offering a point of difference has also been a factor to the success of sterling silver products at Pastiche. Director Amy Bradley says the company has expanded its silver offerings.

“We’ve enjoyed being creative in layering delicate styles and adding colour with gorgeous natural stones. We’ve also seen a trend towards fine yellow gold-plated designs which we are excited about,” she says.

The latest collection includes shoulder-skimming chain earrings, y-chain strand necklaces and pendants in silver and yellow gold plating, which have already proven to be big sellers.

“Sterling silver is an easy metal to work with in the manufacturing process which allows us to create interesting, on-trend and innovative designs that our consumers love,” Bradley says.

Inter-generational strength

That doesn’t mean consumers have steered away from classic designs altogether. Melbourne supplier Moore Jewels has a range of sterling silver and gold-plated pendants and earrings that manager Christina Harold describes as “the bread and butter of jewellery”.

“I started working for a high-end jeweller well before sterling silver gained momentum. In the time since its rise, it has remained very popular and has become a staple in most people’s jewellery collection,” she says. “Sterling silver will continue to be popular well into the future, and I don’t see it changing anytime soon.”

Offering a range of both on-trend and core jewellery pieces is a business model that has been effective for Cocktail Jewellery. The business’ agent Heidi Plentinger says the collection’s quality and lower price point make it an attractive choice for consumers.

“The strong point about Cocktail is that it’s made to European standards, so it is a nickel free and rhodium plated quality product. It can fit in with any existing silver ranges or it can be a range on its own. It can fit into any jewellery store,” she says.

“I think why jewellers continue to sell sterling silver is because the price point is low, these kinds of products have higher profit margins. The white metal is an attractive metal and suits a lot of skin tones and its lower price point makes it more accessible to consumers.” Couture Kingdom supplies Disney-trademarked jewellery, rhodium-plated sterling silver collections that are popular among both children and adults. Managing director Michael Tran says the perception of sterling silver across all consumer demographics is that it is a precious metal ideal for producing quality jewellery.

“We believe that customers remain attracted to purchasing sterling silver as it is still considered a prestigious precious metal. As such we have invested in premium packaging to differentiate our sterling silver, stainless steel and gold-plated products,” Tran says.

“Our sterling silver precious metal range remains one of our bestselling lines. It offers a premium product, display unit and packaging at an affordable price point.”

Notwithstanding its affordable price tag, silver’s association with luxury is what Bradley believes to be the driving force for strong sales, particularly over the past decade.

“The allure of silver is the inherent beauty of the precious metal together with its affordable price tag,” she says. “It carries the association of a classic, luxury product while remaining affordable for consumers and able to be used creatively by designers to make new and exciting pieces that make a statement.”

Rose recognises that there will always be two consumer groups: those looking for something classic and safe, and others looking to stand out with unique pieces in their collection. He feels sterling silver will continue to appeal to both groups in the foreseeable future.

“I don’t think the traditional customer is ever going to go away but there’s always going to be a very strong element of the customer base that’s looking for something original and different,” he says.

“Either way, sterling silver is a very stable category within the jewellery market.

It’s not really showing any signs of slowing down and we’re going to continue to see new brands coming into the market that will create different and edgy designs.”

Queensland’s Daniel Bentley designs his namesake brand with wife Lene. The pair have made a name for themselves producing sterling silver products that emulate Australian and Danish jewellery styles. Daniel Bentley is distributed in Australia and Denmark as well as in Sweden and New Zealand.

“Silver has cemented its position in the jewellery market because of the competitive advantages it has. It is a precious metal with a very long history, and this carries weight over lesser, more industrial metals like steel,” Bentley says.

“Established higher-end jewellery brands have turned their attention to silver in an effort to offer products that cater for entry-level clients. More established design houses like ours have solidified their position with silver design at the forefront because of the design and manufacturing advantages it allows.”

Take a risk

In the near future, Thompson-Carter believes the onus will be on retailers to seek out unique product offerings without relying on big brands to push for innovation.

“I think silver is strong; I think the longevity of the metal and the freshness of the space is strong; I think retailers need to be reminded that there are no rules around how creative you can be. We are seeing brands produce more fine statements and we are now stepping outside the comfort zone in being prepared to use more precious stones. Retailers need to be jumping on those brands,” she says.

Daniel Bentley carries a vast range of silver products in contemporary designs that reflect Bentley’s fascination for Danish design. The brushed and polished metals create a contrast and the collection spans organic shapes and sharp, geometric designs.

“Every year, we create a new, original silver range and add this to our catalogue of contemporary jewellery that we offer our clients. Our job is to make collections that stand out of the crowd for their unique design and quality and to ensure that our clients know the origin and the inspiration behind our themed pieces,” Bentley says.

“We combine silver with gold, diamonds, coloured gems and pearls to highlight the forms, though it’s evident that silver is the focus.”

Clark says his latest collection of knotted pieces at Black Matter have been very successful with stockists across Australia, New Zealand and the US: “Our most popular piece is The Statement Ring by Black Matter. This collection is hammer-finished and it looks incredibly striking in sterling silver, which is why it’s a best seller.”

Thompson-Carter says more suppliers are looking to push the boundaries with the robust, white metal. While it can already be seen stocked by most jewellers, the next step for retailers is to think outside the square.

“If you are a retailer looking for an innovative product, there are plenty of quirky little boutique brands out there with designs that have come from a pencil and paper, rather than from mass manufacturing,” she says. “A few years ago, we were seeing sales of 300 per cent more silver than gold. I don’t think consumers’ desire to own sterling silver pieces is going to go away.”

Sterling silver may not be a new sector of the jewellery industry but it certainly remains a strong one. There are so many avenues to invest in stocking sterling silver and the key is to think a little differently.

Standing out in sterling Here are some local artisanal jewellers making silver with a fresh new take: Melbourne’s ROBYN WILSON handmakes her sterling silver creations in bold shapes with enamel and titanium finishes. “When starting out, it was a much more affordable precious metal to work with and therefore my finished pieces were more affordable,” she says. “I was introduced to Argentium silver quite a few years ago and I now use it in a lot of my work, especially my granulated pieces as it fuses beautifully.” Fellow Melburnian LAUREN TROJKOVIC uses traditional metalsmithing techniques and wax casting to produce her collection of large statement pieces. She credits sterling silver’s malleability and the ability to be easily engraved as benefits; however, she incorporates colours into her pieces using various materials. “I use precious gemstones and the acrylic polymer Corian in my work to add form and colour. Corian is most commonly used as a benchtop material in kitchens and bathrooms but is a versatile and lightweight alternative in jewellery,” she says. “I find inspiration from the graphic shapes and elaborate embellishment seen in ethnic jewellery from Africa, India and South America.” Adelaide Hills designer SIMONE WALSH produces “alchemic, yet delicate” collections in sterling silver, incorporating gold and gemstones. “I love the slightly warm look of silver,” she says. “Given that I’ve been working with it for about 25 years, sterling silver is the metal I know best; it feels a bit like an old friend when I’m working with it.” Sterling silver has proven to be an ideal metal for producing images that emulate ornamental details from different cultures and historical periods in her work: “I think the colouring suits most people, and it plays well with a very wide array of gemstone colours too. It’s also a very affordable precious metal, which makes it much more accessible for customers and also for small-scale designers and makers.” Working out of Savi Jewellery in Noosaville, Queensland, GERHARD HERBST’S jewellery designs incorporate unconventional shapes and forms using sterling silver, as well as 9, 14 and 18-carat gold. “Sterling is a quality material. I appreciate the material for its working properties and its finish. It’s also a commodity metal and has been used along with gold as a store value for thousands of years,” he says. “Over time, real silver jewellery will always hold its value,” he believes. “I also like sterling for its colour and price point. It has real value and allows me to create quality pieces within an affordable price range.” Herbst has been designing jewellery for 30 years and continues to strive to create unique and challenging pieces. “I am inspired by shape and forms,” he says. “I try to find ways to incorporate new and unconventional forms into the medium and format of jewellery.”

 

Fashion Posted September 01, 2018 | Who said ‘jewellery’ can’t offer some seriously provocative items? Here, we take a look at various designs that are unique, quirky, or seriously bizarre… I (avoca)do! Earlier this year, it looked as though the ‘little blue box’ would have to make way for avocados as the engagement ring box of choice. An Instagram post by a Dutch food stylist went viral after she snapped a picture of an avocado opened to reveal an engagement ring. The post was ‘liked’ over 11,000 times and at least one American took inspiration, proposing to his partner avo and all. Living, breathing… jewellery? Scientists from Massachusetts Institute of Technology’s Media Lab unveiled moveable jewellery protoypes that can ‘move’ and ‘interact’. The Kino Project is a collection of garments constructed with small robots on tracks that can perform tasks such as transitioning from a brooch to a necklace. The developers noted they hope one day these robots will be small enough to seamlessly integrate into existing jewellery pieces. Neat! Eyeball bling Consumers can literally have their eye on jewellery all the time now, after US-based company SafeSight Jewellery produced platinum shapes that ophthalmologists can insert into a patient’s eye for some added bling. A surgeon in the US recently started offering the procedure at a cost of US$10,000 (AU$13,200); it takes five minutes with a recovery time of three days. That’s some seriously expensive eye candy! Pretty placentas Gone are the days when keepsake jewellery was hair in a locket. Some businesses, like Beyond the Willow Tree, now offer pendants made from breast milk, placenta and umbilical cords for sentimental mothers looking to cherish their infant’s early days. While many may be turned off by the thought of bodily fluid in a pendant, jewellers are increasingly using new methods to construct such pieces to have a crystal-like appearance. Risqué necklace London-based designer Lukas Grenwenig’s pendant received worldwide coverage when it was unveiled this year, but perhaps for the wrong reasons. The pendant, designed for UK brand Theo Fennell, first received worldwide attention when somebody noticed its resemblance to.. ahem.. female genitalia. It appears as though the designer had other things on his mind at the time of the product’s creation: “This design is inspired by the way a goldsmith assesses a stone by placing it between their index and middle finger,” Grenwenig stated. Diamond bike This year, Harley Davidson partnered with Swiss watchmaker Bucherer to create a diamond motorbike valued at US$1.8 million (AU$2.3 m). The Blue Edition bike features 360 diamonds, includes a rotating 5.4-carat diamond ring and Bucherer watch under plated glass, as well as a personal safe for storing… diamond spanners? The shiny ride was displayed at UK department store Selfridges. Creepy creations Quirky and obscure jewellery designs don’t just belong to costume parties or events like Halloween, according to British designer Percy Lau. Lau’s somewhat creepy designs include miniature ear earrings, tiny noses on rings and open mouths moulded into a range of pieces in otherworldly ways. The collection is just one of many belonging to small online designers who push the limits of fashion jewellery to bizarre and out of this world. Feeling blue American jewellery company ban.do has been criticised of “romanticising mental illness” with its collection of necklaces showcasing the words ‘depression’ and ‘anxiety’. The company’s chief creative officer, Jen Gotch said she drew from her experiences with bipolar disorder and hoped the range would act as a “conversation starter” in destigmatising mental illness. Many labelled the range as ‘offensive’ on Twitter following its launch. Million dollar ‘oh’ A $1.8 million vibrator is the most expensive sex toy ever put on the market and it was made here… Down Under. Australian business Burns Jewellery produced “the Pearl Royale” which contains over 2,000 white, blue and pink diamonds flush set in platinum. The toy took almost 15 years to make and joins Burns Jewellery’s other sensual products including an 18-carat gold “Casanova” dildo and a gold-handled whip made from human hair. Bedazzled beetles A group of women in Mexico made headlines this year when they transformed live beetles into brooches by attaching semi-precious stones to their shells. Painted in gold and chained to lapels, the “bejeweled” beetles made the rounds on Facebook and Twitter, with many calling out the trend for being “cruel” and “in-humane”. Nutritious designs African jewellery designer, Pamela has been making delicious jewellery under her brand Lola Ade. The artist found unique ways to expand and engage her social media audience by swapping out gemstones for fruit and vegetables. Pamela utilised blueberries, capsicum lemons in her photo series titled ‘Raw’. While the line of jewellery is just for show rather than sale, it does look scrumptious! Scented smart rings Wearable technology engineers at Computex in Taiwan have figured out a way to combine ‘scratch and sniff’ with fashionable jewellery. The XRing operates like a smartwatch, alerting the wearer of phone notifications, but instead of vibrating to notify.. It sprays! Still in prototype form, the ring squirts perfume on the wearer to alert them of phone calls and texts. The more popular you are, the more intense you’ll smell!

Saturday, 22 September, 2018 05:48pm